Grays Mauricia L’Intendance 2019

Grays Mauricia L'Intendance 2019 is an agricole-style white from Mauritius, made by Grays from fresh sugar-cane juice rather than molasses. Mauritius sits outside the protected agricole zone, so this is cane-juice rum in spirit, here distilled on a pot still, unaged and bottled unsweetened at a hefty 60%.

The pot still gives the fresh cane extra body, and the result is expressive and green. The nose leads with sugarcane, cut grass and a floral lift, the palate carries grass, cane, mango and a vegetal edge, and the finish stays fresh with green cane and citrus. Crucially the esters are nicely balanced rather than wild, so the high proof reads as power rather than aggression. At 60% it holds up neat for drinkers who like full-strength cane juice, while its bright, fruity cane makes it a strong base for cocktails, sitting comfortably alongside Haitian clairins in style.