Glenfarclas The Family Casks 43 Years Old 1979

This official Glenfarclas, a 43 year old, from 1979, cask 3230, at 41.5%, 227 bottles in all. Glenfarclas is a Speyside single malt matured almost wholly in sherry casks from Jerez. It has been run by six generations of the Grant family, one of Scotch whisky's last truly independent houses. Its slow, cool dunnage maturation loses very little to the angels each year. Direct firing chars the wash a little, lending the rich, nutty depth Glenfarclas is known for. Its whiskies are bottled at their natural colour, without chill filtration.

It was taken gently through wash and spirit stills, building a deep malt of dried fruit and dark sugar. A refill bourbon hogshead held it, keeping the full character to the fore. Ethereal and fragile, the decades draw it to a resinous, waxy depth of dried fruit, treacle and old oak. Maturation runs slow and even in the dunnage warehouses at Ballindalloch.

At an approachable 41.5% it is soft and fruity. Fig, walnut and a bittersweet chocolate, lifted by a sweet oak. A baked apple and a warm cinnamon lift the middle. The close is rich and dark, fruit over a warm spice. This is Glenfarclas's deep, fruity Speyside style.