$635
Gordon and MacPhail, the Elgin grocer laying down casks on South Street since 1895, bottled this Glenesk, a 24 year old, at 43%. A soft malty sweetness and a cereal note, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. Known over its life as Highland Esk, North Esk, Montrose, Hillside and finally Glenesk. This is the quiet, malty malt of Montrose.
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Description
A 24 year old Glenesk from Gordon and MacPhail, distilled in 1984, at 43%. Glenesk was a Highland single malt from a Montrose distillery raised in an old flax mill. Its water was drawn from the river by the Angus coast at Montrose. It ran under five names in its life, from Highland Esk to North Esk, Montrose, Hillside and at last Glenesk. It was rebuilt as a grain distillery from 1938, working a continuous Coffey still for over two decades.
Run slowly off the spirit still, giving a gentle, honeyed Highland spirit. Maturation came in an Oloroso cask, layered over the light Glenesk make. At this evaporative stage ellagitannins lend structure while oxidation builds a richer tropical fruit over beeswax. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and a soft coconut over the malt. Years in oak deepened the spirit to gold, the body growing rounder with time. Active wood frames the malt without ever crowding the light Highland spirit.
At 43% it is fruity, creamy and soft. A clean, malty sweetness with a grassy lift, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. Beneath it run honey, barley and a soft apple. It finishes light, dry and malty. This is a rare, honeyed Highland single malt.
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