Glendronach 23 Years Old 1960

Gordon and MacPhail, the Elgin grocer laying down casks on South Street since 1895, bottled this Glendronach, distilled in 1960, at 40%. Glendronach is a Highland single malt, founded in 1826 near Huntly in Aberdeenshire. It was mothballed in 1996 and lay silent until production resumed in 2002. It passed to Brown Forman, owner of Jack Daniel's, in 2016 as part of a 285 million pound deal. It was bought in 2008 by Billy Walker's BenRiach company, who rebuilt it as a heavily sherried single malt. It ferments in Oregon pine washbacks over long fermentations for a full, fruity spirit.

The spirit was run slowly off the spirit still, giving a deep, full bodied Highland spirit. It rested in ex-Bourbon oak, oak lactones lending a creamy vanilla. At this evaporative stage ellagitannins lend structure while oxidation builds a richer raisin and treacle. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and a soft coconut over the fruit.

At an approachable 40% it is soft and fruity. A deep, dark sweetness, lifted by a sweet oak. The body is full and rich, the fruit deep and dark. A long finish carries raisin, chocolate and a treacle. This is Glendronach's deep, fruity Highland style.