CDI (Bottled for Premium Spirits) 2009

This bottling from Compagnie des Indes, the respected French house known for terroir led, broad origin single casks, draws an unsweetened 2009 Panamanian and bottles it at full proof. Distilled from molasses on a column still and aged thirteen years in ex bourbon wood, it shows Panama's soft base pushed into far drier, stronger territory than the country's usual mellow style, with alcohol, spice, vanilla and a metallic edge on the nose.

The palate is dry and spicy, wood and chocolate over a robust spirit, finishing on chocolate, a bitter edge, liquorice and clear alcohol. At 61.8% with no added sugar, this is a focused, clean sipper that rewards a slow approach and a little water, the chocolate and oak holding the centre while the strength keeps it firmly for experienced palates. For anyone who likes dry, higher proof Panama or straightforward unsweetened cask strength rum, it delivers exactly that without ornament.