Mortlach 12 Years Old 1993 (Murray McDavid)

Murray McDavid, founded in 1996 by the team that revived Bruichladdich, drew this 12 Year Old: from a 1993 vintage, an outturn of 1,800 bottles. Mortlach, the Beast of Dufftown, condenses its spirit in worm tubs and part-triple-distils through the tiny Wee Witchie still, building weight and a savoury, sulphury core.

Across twelve years in American oak, esterification got underway and the meaty spirit rounded, vanilla and light toffee folding in.

At 46% it shows citrus, honey and an oak-framed depth framed by the dense Dufftown spirit. A Beast of Dufftown.