Wolfburn No. 204

Wolfburn's Small Batch release No. 204, named for the warehouse and stow the casks came from. A 5 year old, bottled at 46%. Wolfburn is a far north craft distillery at Thurso in Caithness, working by hand since 2013. Most of the make is unpeated, with a lightly peated malt distilled since 2014 for a gentle smoke.

It was worked through the distillery's small copper stills, for a light, citrussy spirit with a sea air lift. A sherry cask wrapped the light spirit in dried fruit and a nutty depth. Young here, it keeps a clean, fruity vigour over light vanilla. A long fermentation builds the fruity esters the casks then frame. The Kylver Series gathers single casks named for the runes of an ancient Caithness stone. Water is drawn from the Wolf Burn, the stream that runs past the distillery to the sea. Wolfburn distils, matures and bottles all on its one small site at Thurso.

At an easy 46% it is light. Green apple, vanilla and a sea air lift, and the Madeira lends raisin and a caramelised nuttiness. A vanilla and a sea air note give it lift. Apple, honey and a sea air lift see out the finish. This is a fresh, maritime far north single malt.