Wolfburn The Anniversary Series 9 Years Old 2013

A Wolfburn single malt, a 9 year old from 2013, cask 691, bottled at 52.3%. Just 680 bottles were filled. Wolfburn is the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland, at Thurso in Caithness, where whisky has flowed again since 2013. Most of the make is unpeated, with a lightly peated malt distilled since 2014 for a gentle smoke.

It was worked through the distillery's small copper stills, for a light, citrussy spirit with a sea air lift. A sherry cask wrapped the light spirit in dried fruit and a nutty depth. By this age the young spirit rounds into orchard fruit and a gentle oak. Hand filled and hand bottled, each cask is followed closely from fill to glass. The original Wolfburn, founded in 1821 by William Smith, was once the largest distillery in Caithness before falling silent in the 1860s. The new distillery stands about 350 metres from the old ruins, sharing the Wolf Burn that names them both.

At a hearty 52.3% it carries real punch. Green apple, vanilla and a sea air lift, and the Oloroso adds figgy fruit and a warm nuttiness. A vanilla and a sea air note give it lift. Apple, honey and a sea air lift see out the finish. This is a fresh, maritime far north single malt.