Mortlach 21 Years Old 1986 (Murray McDavid)

Murray McDavid, founded in 1996 by the team that revived Bruichladdich, released this 21 Year Old: a 1986 distillation, an outturn of 648 bottles. Mortlach, the Beast of Dufftown, condenses its spirit in worm tubs and part-triple-distils through the tiny Wee Witchie still, building weight and a savoury, sulphury core.

Twenty-one years in ex-Bourbon let oxidation gain weight, baked fruit and a waxy, oily depth building over the oily, meaty spirit.

At 51.1% it shows fresh fruit, an oily texture and vanilla, undiluted. A muscular Speyside malt.