Hillinger Hill Brut Reserve 2018

Leo Hillinger works from Jois in Burgenland, and this HILL Brut Reserve is the house's serious traditional-method Sekt, made to compete with fine international sparkling. The grapes come from the best sites in Burgenland, chosen to give freshness, structure and finesse, and 2018 was a cool vintage that favoured exactly those qualities. The second fermentation takes place in bottle in the classic way, after which the wine is aged on its lees for at least 24 months. That extended lees contact builds the fine bead, the depth and the creamy texture, while a moderate 11.5% alcohol keeps it light and accessible, and the dosage is set to a dry Brut.

The colour is a light straw yellow with a fine, long-lasting bead. The nose is complex, with green apple, citrus, freshly baked brioche and a hint of hazelnut. The palate is elegant, dry and balanced, with a fine mousse, harmonious acidity and a long, mineral finish, the lees ageing adding depth without masking the freshness. Serve well chilled at 6 to 8 degrees. It works as an aperitif and suits oysters, sushi, carpaccio, fine fish, poultry in light sauces and vegetarian dishes.