Craigellachie 15 Years Old 2011 100 Proof Edition #81 (Signatory)

From the Pitlochry bottler Signatory Vintage, a 15 year old Craigellachie, distilled in 2011, bottled at 57.1%. Craigellachie was built in 1891 and is one of the few distilleries still using worm tubs. It sits at the village of Craigellachie, where the River Fiddich joins the Spey by Telford's iron bridge.

It was worked through stills and worm tubs for a muscular, oily spirit, building the old fashioned Craigellachie style. A sherry butt held it, the wood lending raisin and walnut to the robust spirit. At oxidative maturity aldehydes and esters lend tropical fruit while ellagitannins add a drying, savoury grip. Long ageing turns the young, sulphurous spirit towards mango, wax and a warm spice. With age the meaty young spirit turns to pineapple, mango and a waxy depth. It was launched as a single malt brand in 2014, with a bare knuckle, old fashioned image.

At 57.1%, undiluted, it is deep and fruity. Meaty malt, tropical fruit and a waxy oil, with raisin, date and treacle from the cask. A dried fruit and a savoury, oily depth give it weight. A long, oily finish carries a tropical depth. This is the muscular, meaty Speyside malt of Craigellachie.