Caol Ila 25 Years Old 1984 Cask #5383 (BB&R)

From the London wine merchant Berry Bros and Rudd, a 25 year old Caol Ila, distilled in 1984, from cask 5383, bottled at 57.9%, one of 280 bottles. Caol Ila stands below a steep brae on Islay's rugged east shore. Tall stills and a clean cut give the spirit its oily, lemony lightness.

This was distilled slowly from peated malt for a refined island smoke, for a smoky spirit with a citrus lift. A refill bourbon hogshead held it, keeping the distillery character to the fore. At this oxidative, evaporative stage ellagitannins lend a polished, drying structure while slow oxidation brings waxy tropical fruit over a ghost of peat. The make balances phenolic smoke against a bright, oily citrus. Much of the spirit leaves the island by sea to mature on the mainland. Diageo's Special Releases have featured both peated and unpeated Caol Ila. The lighter style means the cask and the citrus speak alongside the peat.

At a full 57.9% it is bold and oily. A clean ashy smoke with lime and brine, with a gentle oak sweetness beneath. A sea salt and an olive oil note sit under the smoke. The finish is clean, smoky and maritime. This is a lemony, coastal Islay single malt.