Caol Ila 1977 (Connoisseurs Choice)

From the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, a Caol Ila, distilled in 1977, bottled at 40%. Caol Ila is the largest distillery on the Isle of Islay. The original Victorian distillery was almost entirely rebuilt in the modern era.

Drawn off the distillery's six tall stills from peated barley, for a smoky spirit with a citrus lift. A bourbon barrel held it, the oak lending vanilla and a little cream. Without an age statement, soft vanillin sweetness and a waxy, smoky body suggest a good few years in oak. Active wood frames the smoke without smothering the citrus beneath. Its spirit also feeds blends such as Bell's and Black Bottle. Refill oak lets the maritime peat and lemon of the spirit lead the way. The malt is medium peated, giving a cleaner smoke than the south shore Islays. A few weeks each year the distillery runs an unpeated, Highland style spirit.

At 40% it is clean and coastal. Wood smoke, lemon zest and brine, with a light vanilla and a touch of coconut. Smoke, lemon and a saline minerality fill the middle. Smoke and sea salt see out a long finish. This is the elegant, lighter side of Islay.