Caol Ila 13 Years Old 2003 (Connoisseurs Choice)

A Caol Ila drawn by the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, distilled in 2003, bottled at 46%. Caol Ila is prized for a smoke that leans to lemon and olive oil rather than tar. Water falls to the distillery from Loch nam Ban in the hills above.

This was made from medium peated malt for a clean, smoky spirit, for a smoke more elegant than heavy. A refill hogshead held it quietly, the spirit left to lead. By the integrating teens harsher congeners fade and ethyl esters build, lending a riper citrus over the softening peat. The cool Islay air gives a slow, steady maturation by the shore. Cool, damp warehousing slows the loss of the angel's share over the years. It was founded by Hector Henderson and later passed to the Distillers Company. The spirit's lightness lets sherry, wine and bourbon casks all show through. Refill oak lets the maritime peat and lemon of the spirit lead the way.

Reduced to 46%, it is mellow. Peat smoke, citrus and a soft oil, with a creamy oak note. It is clean and coastal, the peat and lemon to the fore. A long, coastal finish carries a peaty warmth. This is a refined, citrus driven Islay smoke.