Caol Ila 12 Years Old 2010 (Hepburn’s Choice)

From the independent Hunter Laing, a 12 year old Caol Ila, distilled in 2010, bottled at 46%, one of 717 bottles. Caol Ila has distilled at Port Askaig since the middle of the 19th century. The malt is medium peated, giving a cleaner smoke than the south shore Islays.

This was distilled from medium peated malt in tall copper stills, for a smoke more elegant than heavy. Ex-Sherry wood added a dried fruit richness beneath the smoke. Across the integration years the smoke loses its edge as esters and vanillin weave into a smoother, citrussy whole. The spirit's high notes of lemon and grass survive even long maturation. A few weeks each year the distillery runs an unpeated, Highland style spirit. The clean, lemony smoke has made it a favourite of blenders for generations. Long fermentations build the fruity, citrus notes that sit beneath the smoke.

Bottled at 46%, it is rounded. Smoke, lemon and a peppery oil, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. An oily smoke coats the palate, citrus and brine behind. It finishes smoky, oily and bright. This is an Islay malt that wears its smoke lightly.