Caol Ila 12 Years Old 2001 (Connoisseurs Choice)

A 12 year old Caol Ila from the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, bottled at 46%. Caol Ila stands below a steep brae on Islay's rugged east shore. Long fermentations build the fruity, citrus notes that sit beneath the smoke.

Run through tall copper stills that keep the smoke light, for an oily smoke that leans to lemon and brine. Maturation came in ex-Bourbon wood, the oak quiet behind the spirit. Across the integration years the smoke loses its edge as esters and vanillin weave into a smoother, citrussy whole. Cool, damp warehousing slows the loss of the angel's share over the years. Maturation by the sea gives the malt its mineral, sea spray character. The warehouses are ranged along the rocky shore at the water's edge. Smoked citrus and a saline minerality are the hallmarks of the make. Water falls to the distillery from Loch nam Ban in the hills above.

At 46% it is smooth and clean. Peat smoke, citrus and a soft oil, with honeyed oak underneath. The palate is oily and smoky, with a green citrus lift. A smoky, oily warmth lingers with lemon and salt. This is a clean Islay smoke from the island's largest distillery.