Caol Ila 11 Years Old 2011 (Hepburn’s Choice)

The independent Hunter Laing selected this Caol Ila, an 11 year old, distilled in 2011, bottled at 46%, one of 707 bottles. Caol Ila sends more spirit to independent bottlers than almost any malt. The warehouses are ranged along the rocky shore at the water's edge.

This was distilled slowly from peated malt for a refined island smoke, for an oily smoke that leans to lemon and brine. A sherry cask wrapped the spirit in dried fruit and a nutty depth. Across the integration years the smoke loses its edge as esters and vanillin weave into a smoother, citrussy whole. Time in oak deepens the oily body while the maritime smoke stays bright. Long ageing turns the young, sharp peat into a soft, coastal smoke. From a small Victorian works it grew into one of Scotland's biggest malt distilleries. A ferry crosses the Sound from Port Askaig to Jura and the mainland.

At 46% it is smooth and clean. A coastal peat with citrus and pepper, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. The oily body carries the smoke long and clean. A long, briny finish ends on lemon and soft smoke. This is an elegant Islay single malt.