Craigellachie 13 Years Old 2009 (Hepburn’s Choice)

The independent Hunter Laing bottled this Craigellachie, a 13 year old, distilled in 2009, bottled at 46%, one of 361 bottles. Craigellachie was built in 1891 and is one of the few distilleries still using worm tubs. Worm tubs give little copper contact, so the new spirit is robust and full, mellowing to tropical fruit with age.

The spirit was run through the distillery's stills and old fashioned worm tubs, for the muscular, meaty make Craigellachie is known for. It was matured in refill ex-Bourbon oak, vanilla and a tropical fruit over the meaty spirit. By the integrating teens the sulphur fades and esters build, pineapple and wax growing over the oily spirit. The robust make rewards long ageing, the meatiness giving way to tropical fruit. The oily spirit shows the cask clearly, vanilla and tropical fruit over a meaty malt. Long ageing turns the young, sulphurous spirit towards mango, wax and a warm spice.

At 46% it is gentle, sweet and fruity. A muscular, waxy sweetness, with a soft vanilla from the oak. Beneath it run meaty malt, tropical fruit and a waxy oil. The finish is deep, oily and savoury. This is Craigellachie's robust, oily Speyside style.