Craigellachie 1974 (Connoisseurs Choice)

From the Elgin house Gordon and MacPhail, a Craigellachie, distilled in 1974, bottled at 40%. Craigellachie, where the Fiddich meets the Spey, is the meaty backbone of the White Horse blend. Its malt has long been the muscular heart of the White Horse blend.

Distilled in copper stills with worm tub condensers on Blue Hill spring water, giving the heavy, oily spirit at its heart. It rested in ex-Bourbon oak, the wood adding vanilla and a waxy tropical fruit. Carrying no age, soft vanillin (vanilla) and a robust, waxy malt suggest a fair spell in cask. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and coconut over the meaty malt. It was rebuilt in 1965, but kept its worm tubs where most distilleries dropped them. Years in oak round the spirit, the worm tub weight turning to pineapple and wax. The cool Speyside air gives a slow, even maturation, the young sulphur fading to fruit.

At an approachable 40% it is soft and easy. Meaty malt, tropical fruit and a waxy oil, with a soft vanilla from the oak. The mouthfeel is heavy and oily, the fruit carried on a meaty body. Tropical fruit, malt and a savoury oak see out the finish. This is the muscular, meaty Speyside malt of Craigellachie.