Caol Ila 9 Years Old 2010 (Hepburn’s Choice)

A 9 year old Caol Ila, this distilled in 2010 from the independent Hunter Laing, bottled at 46%, one of 797 bottles. Caol Ila is the largest distillery on the Isle of Islay. The six tall stills sit behind picture windows looking out to Jura.

The spirit was distilled with a long fermentation and a clean cut, shaping the lighter side of Islay. A sherry cask gave dried fruit and a dark, nutty sweetness. In these extractive early years the oak surrenders vanillin as vanilla and cis oak lactones as coconut, while guaiacol carries a vivid, lemony peat smoke. The medium peating leaves a smoke that is firm but never heavy. The lighter style means the cask and the citrus speak alongside the peat. The clean, oily spirit takes cask flavour well while holding its citrus and smoke. Refill oak lets the maritime peat and lemon of the spirit lead the way.

At an easy 46% it is gentle. Peat smoke, citrus and a soft oil, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. The palate is oily and smoky, with a green citrus lift. Smoke and sea salt see out a long finish. This is a lemony, coastal Islay single malt.