Zuidam Flying Dutchman No. 3

Zuidam built its name on Dutch whisky and genever, and the Flying Dutchman No. 3 carries that distillery's pot still approach into rum. This is a young molasses spirit, three years old, finished in sherry casks and bottled unsweetened at 40%, more of a curiosity from a family operation in Baarle-Nassau than a polished aged sipper.

The pot still leaves plenty of raw character intact, and at this age the wood and spirit have not fully reconciled. Expect a woody, solvent-edged nose with dried currants, a light and slightly thin palate, and a finish that runs harsh and short. The sherry shows more as a savoury, oloroso-style frame than as sweetness. It rewards drinkers who like prodding at oddball bottles and rough edges, but anyone after a soft, rounded rum will find it a challenging glass.