Zéro Nine Spirits ZN09 Pure Cane Juice 2023

Zero Nine Spirits built ZN09 Pure Cane Juice 2023 from fresh pressed sugar cane juice rather than molasses, which puts it in agricole territory even though the cane juice term is used in place of the protected AOC wording. Bottled at 50.1%, unsweetened and only lightly aged, it keeps the grassy snap of a blanc while picking up a little colour from time in wood.

A single column distilled low to hold its vegetal congeners, it shows sugarcane sap, floral and herbal notes with ripe mango and a peppery, briny lift, then a finish of cane, white pepper and liquorice. The quirk here is the cask: a barrel that once held Islay whisky lends an unexpected peat smoke that adds originality to the green cane core. Higher in proof and drier than an easy 40% sipper, it suits a Ti Punch or a daiquiri and rewards curious palates after something with a twist.