Zárate Espadeiro 2022

Zarate is a benchmark grower in Rias Baixas in Galicia, a region famous for white Albarino, and this red from the local Espadeiro grape is a rarity. The vines are around sixty years old and grow on plots close to sea level on xabre, a decomposed granite that drains freely and lends Galician wines their mineral cut. The cool, wet Atlantic climate keeps ripening slow and acidity high, which is why the reds here are pale and fresh rather than heavy. The harvest is by hand with selection in the vineyard. The destemmed bunches ferment in open stainless steel with a daily cap punch-down for gentle extraction, then the wine spends twelve months in 500-litre French oak barrels, a larger format that gives structure with only a light oak imprint. The colour is bright ruby. The nose is red berries, cherry and red currant, with black pepper, dried herbs and a stony, earthy note. The palate is light and juicy, the acidity lively and the tannins fine, finishing clean and savoury. Serve at 14 to 15 degrees, lightly chilled. It suits poultry, pork and grilled oily fish.