Xesteiriña Albariño 2024

Xesteiriña is a small, natural wine Albariño from Acios da Xesteiriña in Rías Baixas, in Galicia in north-western Spain. The region is defined by its granite soils and its smallholdings, and by a cool, damp Atlantic climate that gives white wines their bright acidity and saline edge. Albariño is the signature grape here, thick skinned and well suited to the humidity, giving stone fruit and citrus fruit with a coastal freshness. This bottling is farmed organically and made in a natural style, with minimal intervention in the cellar. Rather than the usual crisp steel fermented Albariño, it is aged in barrel, which adds texture, a broader mouthfeel and a gently savoury character, while the fine lees add weight and a subtle creaminess. The oak is used for structure rather than obvious flavour. In the glass it is straw gold, with white peach, apricot, lemon and orange peel, over white flowers and a briny mineral note. The palate is textured and dry, with the saline freshness that marks good Rías Baixas and a long finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.