Xellent Swiss Vodka

Xellent is made by Diwisa Distillerie Willisau in the Lucerne region of central Switzerland, using Swiss rye of the Picasso and Matador varieties. Rye gives the spirit a peppery, grainy backbone, and the triple distillation, with the first pass run through small 500-litre pot stills, keeps some of that character rather than scrubbing it flat. The vodka is reduced with glacier water drawn from the Titlis, and the brand adds Edelweiss along with a set of Alpine herbs, berries and flowers, which turns this into something between a plain vodka and a lightly botanical spirit.

The nose is fresh and herbal, with tea leaves, lemon and a hint of berry. The palate carries jasmine, moss and lemon balm over the rye base, and the finish is long and soft. Those Alpine botanicals want a clean stage, so pour it over a single large block of ice with a strip of lemon peel, let it sit for a minute and sip it slowly: the dilution opens the herbal notes without watering the rye out of the picture.