Wolfburn No. 375

Wolfburn's Small Batch release No. 375, named for the warehouse and stow the casks came from. Bottled at 46%. Wolfburn, at Thurso on Scotland's far north coast, revived an old Caithness distilling name when it opened in 2013. Water comes from the Wolf Burn, the stream that runs past the distillery to the sea.

It was drawn off a single pair of Forsyths copper stills, for the light, fresh, maritime make Wolfburn is known for. A sherry butt held it, the wood lending raisin and walnut. No age is given, but the fresh fruit marks it as young Wolfburn. The clean spirit shows the cask clearly, the wood adding much of the colour. It is the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland, a stop on the North Coast 500. Everything here is done by hand, from milling to bottling, the mark of a true small distillery. Most of the make is unpeated, with a lightly peated malt distilled since 2014 for a soft smoke.

At 46% it is smooth and fresh. A crisp, coastal fruit, and the Oloroso brings dried fruit, fig and a nutty depth. A green apple and a citrus note lift it. It finishes clean, fresh and fruity. This is Wolfburn, the far north Highland malt.