Viñedos de Páganos El Puntido Gran Reserva 2014

El Puntido is the single-vineyard Rioja of Viñedos de Páganos, the Eguren family estate in the Rioja Alavesa, drawn from old Tempranillo vines on poor calcareous clay at altitude. The Gran Reserva is released only in strong vintages, and the 2014 has had a long, traditional élevage: 28 months in barrel followed by nine years resting in bottle before release. The barrel time allows slow oxygen exchange through the oak to soften the tannins and build tertiary complexity, while the extended bottle ageing lets the wine mature gently in a reductive environment, where fresh fruit gives way to savoury, developed character. The cool nights of the high vineyards preserve the acidity that carries a wine of this age. The colour is a mature ruby with a garnet rim. The nose shows mellowed plum and dried fig alongside leather, tobacco, cedar and earth. The palate is medium to full bodied, with soft, resolved tannins, lively acidity and a long, savoury finish. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees, decanted, with roast lamb, game or aged cheese.