Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 2004

Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva is a red from D.O.Ca. Rioja, made by the historic Viña Tondonia winery in Haro, in the cool western corner of Rioja Alta. The estate vineyards sit on poor, well-drained soils and include vines over a hundred years old, whose low yields concentrate flavour in small crops of fruit. The blend is led by Tempranillo with Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo adding acidity, structure and aromatic lift. This is one of the most traditional wines in Spain. It is aged for 120 months, ten years, in American oak barrels, a long oxidative ageing that fades the colour, melts the tannins and replaces primary fruit with tertiary character of leather, dried fruit and spice. American oak in particular lends coconut and vanilla. After the cask the wine rests further in bottle before release. It is pale ruby turning brick at the rim. The nose is delicate and savoury, with dried fig, cherry, leather, tobacco and dried herbs over sweet vanilla oak. The palate is light to medium in weight, silky, with fine tannins, bright acidity and a long, gently oxidative finish. Serve at 17 degrees, decanting an older bottle. It is at its best with roast lamb and game.