Viña Gravonia 2017

Viña Gravonia is made by R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, one of the oldest and most traditional houses in Rioja, based in the Barrio de la Estación in Haro. It is a single variety Viura from the Viña Zaconia estate on the banks of the River Ebro, planted at around 200 metres on vines of roughly 50 years of age. What sets it apart is the ageing: four years in used oak barrels before release, in a slow, mildly oxidative style that has all but disappeared elsewhere. During that long barrel period, controlled contact with air converts part of the wine's character towards nutty, savoury aromas, while the old oak adds structure rather than obvious vanilla. The result is a white built for the table and for age. The colour is deep gold. The nose is complex and developed, with dried apricot, hazelnut, beeswax and a note of mushroom and pollen from the extended cellar ageing. The palate is dry and layered, with firm acidity holding the wine together and a long, savoury, faintly saline finish. This is not a fresh young white but a serious, traditional one. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees in a full white glass, and decant if young. It suits roast chicken, cured ham and hard cheeses.