Villa Matilde Aglianico Rocca dei Leoni 2021

Villa Matilde makes this Aglianico Rocca dei Leoni in Campania, on volcanic ground at the foot of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano near Naples. The estate is part of the family that revived the ancient Falerno, the celebrated wine of Roman times, and it works its vineyards sustainably. Aglianico is a late-ripening, thick-skinned variety that holds high acidity and tannin even when fully ripe, and the volcanic soils here keep the wine taut and mineral. The grapes ferment on their skins to extract colour and phenolics, and the wine is held to settle and soften its naturally firm structure before bottling. Expect a deep ruby colour and a nose of dark plum, sour cherry and dried herbs, lifted by black pepper and a graphite minerality from the volcanic subsoil. The palate is full bodied at 14 percent, with grippy tannins, bright acidity and savoury notes of leather and tobacco running through a long finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees and decant an hour ahead to ease the tannins. It suits roast red meat and aged sheep's cheese.