Vigneti Massa Monleale 2013

Walter Massa farms in Monleale, in the Colli Tortonesi of eastern Piedmont, in north-west Italy, a producer best known for reviving the white Timorasso but equally skilled with the native Barbera. Barbera is prized for its high natural acidity and low tannin, which give freshness and, in this case, the backbone for extended bottle ageing. The Colli Tortonesi's calcareous hill soils and continental climate build ripe fruit while holding acidity, here at a balanced 14% alcohol. The wine was raised for 12 months in French oak barrels, where slow oxygen exchange softened the tannin and added spice; more than a decade in bottle since the 2013 vintage has since carried it into full maturity. The colour is deep red turning garnet at the rim. The nose is developed, with dried cherry and plum, dried fig, leather, tobacco and an earthy, savoury complexity. The palate is still fresh thanks to Barbera's acidity, with soft tannin, savoury dried fruit and a long, mature finish. This is a red drinking at its peak. Serve it at 16 to 18C. It suits braised meats, mushroom dishes and rich tomato-based cooking.