Vigneti Massa Derthona Montecitorio 2023

Vigneti Massa is the estate of Walter Massa, the grower credited with rescuing Timorasso from near extinction in the hills of Tortona, in south-eastern Piedmont. Montecitorio comes from a named site within the Colli Tortonesi. The hills here carry calcareous clay and marl soils, which give white wines of unusual weight and a firm mineral spine, and the continental climate brings hot days and cool nights that hold onto acidity. Timorasso is a low yielding, difficult variety that repays patience, gaining texture and depth that few Italian whites can match. This bottling is fermented and aged for around twelve months in stainless steel rather than oak, which keeps the focus on fruit and site, while a long rest on the fine lees adds weight and a subtle savoury character to the palate. In the glass it is straw yellow, with white peach, ripe lemon, dried herbs and a waxy, almost beeswax note that is typical of the grape. The palate is full but taut, with a saline, mineral finish and grip that suggests it will age. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.