Vermut Atamán

Vermut Atamán comes from Bodegas Barbadillo in Sanlúcar de Barrameda on the Atlantic coast of Cadiz, southern Spain, a name first registered in 1943 and since revived. Its base is Manzanilla, the lightest of the Sherry styles, grown from Palomino on the chalky albariza soils around Sanlúcar and aged biologically under flor in cellars close to the sea. The coastal humidity sustains a thick flor veil year round, and that biological ageing consumes oxygen, develops yeasty acetaldehyde character and gives Manzanilla its distinctive saline, bone-dry freshness. On this base the vermouth is built by infusion with wormwood, quassia, bitter orange, rosemary and elderberries, the bittering botanicals dominant. The colour is pale. The nose is sweet, with hints of candied fruit, spices and citrus, a contrast to what follows. The palate is strong and acidic, dry rather than sweet, with wormwood and quassia driving a firm bitterness lifted by bitter orange and herbs. Serve well chilled at 6 to 8C over ice with a twist of lemon or orange. It makes a bracing aperitif with seafood, olives and salted almonds.