Valinch & Mallet Bellevue Single Cask 1998

Valinch and Mallet, an Italian independent bottler, presents this single cask from Bellevue on Marie-Galante, a distillery best known for supplying bulk rum to independent houses. The 2004 vintage carries twenty years and bottles at cask strength, 58.2%. Although it sits under the agricole heading, Bellevue here is a molasses rum rather than cane juice, which shows in its ester-driven character.

Matured in ex-bourbon oak, it noses on licorice, esters, mint and dried fruit, with a palate of dates, chocolate, licorice and a light smoke, and a finish of fruit, coffee and that lingering smoky note. The funky, fruity ester profile and the gentle smoke give it intrigue, even if the long ageing has not fully tamed the alcohol at this strength. A few drops of water help knit it together. A distinctive aged molasses single cask for drinkers who enjoy ester-forward rum with dark fruit and a savoury, smoky thread.