Valenciso Cemento 2022

Valenciso, founded by Luis Valentín and Carmen Enciso in Rioja Alta, built their reputation on concrete at a time when wood led the way in the region. Cemento is a Tempranillo made and aged entirely in cement, with no oak contact at all. The 2022 spends 30 months in concrete tanks. Cement is porous enough to allow a slow, gentle micro-oxygenation that softens tannins and rounds the texture, but it imparts no vanilla, toast or spice of its own, so the grape and the cool Rioja Alta sites are left to speak plainly. The fruit is grown under organic and sustainable farming. Expect a medium ruby colour and a nose of red and black cherry, plum and dried herbs over a savoury, earthy base. The palate is fresh and structured, with fine tannins, red berry and liquorice fruit, and a long, mineral finish that stays savoury rather than sweet. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees, ideally decanted for half an hour. It suits roast lamb, grilled beef and earthy mushroom dishes.