Vagüera 2023

Alvar de Dios Hernández built this project around the old vines his grandfather owned in the village of El Pego, in the Toro country of Castilla y León, and now ranks among the more respected growers of the area. Vagüera is a white wine made from Albillo, a native variety with real texture and weight, grown here with an organic and biodynamic approach and made in a classic, low-intervention style. It carries no denomination of origin, which gives the grower a freer hand. The vineyards sit on the poor, well-drained soils of the high Duero plateau, where hot days and cold nights slow ripening and hold on to acidity, so the wine keeps freshness despite the ripe fruit. It spends twelve months in used French oak barrels, chosen so the wood adds oxygen and structure rather than flavour, with lees contact broadening the mid-palate. The colour is bright gold. The nose shows white peach, pear and melon over white flowers and a light waxy note. The palate is dry and textured, with almond and a savoury, mineral finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees in a white wine glass.