Ultreia La Claudina 2024

Ultreia La Claudina is a Godello from Raúl Pérez, one of Spain's most respected winemakers, grown at Valtuille de Abajo in Bierzo from a vineyard planted in 1995. Bierzo sits in a sheltered basin in the west of Castilla y León, with slate and clay soils and a mild climate that ripens Godello while keeping its acidity. Pérez makes this white as if it were a red, fermenting the must in contact with the grape skins and stalks in a 1,500-litre open foudre without temperature control. This skin and stem contact extracts phenolic compounds that give the wine extra structure, a light grip and a savoury, textural character rarely seen in white wine, while the wild ferment adds complexity. It then ages for eleven months in large oak foudres, whose size means slow oxygen exchange and gentle rounding rather than obvious oak flavour. The colour is deep straw-gold. The nose shows ripe white peach, citrus and orange peel, beeswax and dried herbs with a light toasted-almond note. The palate is broad and textured, with a faint tannic grip and a long, savoury finish. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees, ideally in a larger glass. It suits roast poultry and pork.