Travaglini Il Sogno 2020

Travaglini is the leading name in Gattinara, the Alto Piemonte appellation the family helped revive after phylloxera and hail devastated it early in the twentieth century. Il Sogno is a barrel-aged Nebbiolo, the grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco and the signature of Piedmont. Gattinara sits on acidic, iron-rich soils of volcanic porphyry, which give Nebbiolo here a leaner, more mineral cut than the calcareous Langhe to the south, while the cooler northern climate lengthens the growing season and builds aromatic detail. Nebbiolo is a late ripener with naturally high tannin and acidity, and time in wood is used to round the structure and add savoury spice. This bottling is concentrated and warming at 15.5%. The colour is garnet with a bricking rim. The nose is red cherry and plum, rose and dried herb, moving to leather, liquorice and tobacco. The palate is full and firmly tannic, the acidity keeping it fresh through a long, savoury finish. Serve at 18 degrees, decanting an hour or two ahead. It suits roast and braised beef, game and aged cheese.