The Winter Queen II 19 Years Old (Adelphi)

Adelphi, the esteemed independent revived in the 1990s, drew this 19 Year Old, an outturn of 400 bottles. Mortlach, the Beast of Dufftown, condenses its spirit in worm tubs and part-triple-distils through the tiny Wee Witchie still, building weight and a savoury, sulphury core.

Nineteen years in Oloroso deepened the muscular Dufftown spirit into figgy dried fruit and leather, oxidation and ellagitannins adding a nutty, polished structure.

At 54.5% it shows glasshouse and a sherried depth, undiluted. A Beast of Dufftown.