The Duchess Diamond 1998

A single cask Diamond 1998 from The Duchess, drawn from the Diamond distillery that runs all of Guyana's heritage stills. At 20 years and full proof, it offers a soft, woody column Demerara rather than a dense or aggressive one, the cask giving an easygoing character despite the strength.

Maturated from molasses in ex-bourbon wood at 50.8%, it noses on vanilla, fruit, confected notes and a roasted edge, then delivers a soft, fruity palate with spice and a touch of sweetness, the finish leaning on barrel and fruit. Dried fruit and plum sit underneath, with chocolate emerging after time in the glass, though the palate runs thin and a little bitter at the close. Unsweetened and bottled at cask strength, it reads as a relaxed, gentle old Diamond rather than a powerhouse. One for drinkers who want age and softness over intensity.