Tentenublo Custero 2024

Tentenublo is the project of Roberto Olivan, a young Rioja grower who recovers old, overlooked vineyards in the cooler, higher corners of the denomination. The estate name recalls the bell ringing that local farmers once used to scare off hail clouds as the grapes ripened. Custero is a traditional field blend, with Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta and Garnacha Gris alongside Graciano, Monastrell and the white grapes Viura, Malvasia and Calagrano, all co-planted and picked together as the old vineyards were laid out. Working many varieties as one mass keeps natural acidity high and the alcohol moderate, helped by the cool sites and the chalky, clay-limestone soils that give the wine its savoury freshness. The wine is fermented and aged in concrete, an inert material that holds temperature steadily and lets the fruit speak without any oak flavour. The colour is a bright mid ruby. The nose is fragrant with red berries, cherry and white flowers over thyme and pepper. The palate is light bodied and fresh, with fine tannin, lively acidity and a chalky, herbal finish. Serve cool at 14 to 16 degrees. Good with roast chicken, pork and lighter dishes.