TBRC Enmore 1990

That Boutique-y Rum Company bottles honest, additive-free rum, and this 1990 Enmore reaches twenty-seven years, a closed-era Demerara from the wooden Coffey still, the last of its kind in the world. Bottled at cask strength, 51.2%, from ex-bourbon, it shows an unusually savoury, herbal face of the marque.

The nose is striking and unconventional, dried figs, brine, mushrooms and herbs rather than sweet fruit, while the palate turns to leather, spice, roasted notes and dark chocolate, finishing on leather, a vegetal edge and more chocolate. There is wood, light roast and faint banana underneath in the older style, but the briny, olive-like character sets it apart. Fresh and minty on the close with a short-to-medium length, this is a distinctive, food-friendly old Enmore for drinkers who appreciate the savoury, vegetal side of long-aged Guyana rather than its sweeter expressions.