Suertes del Marqués El Esquilón 2020

Suertes del Marqués makes El Esquilón in the Valle de la Orotava on the north side of Tenerife, from the 1.2 hectare El Esquilón vineyard. The wine is led by Listán Negro from 80 year old vines, with younger Tintilla, planted at 550 metres on a north-facing slope of volcanic rock. The volcanic soils give very low yields, which concentrate flavour, and lend the wine the smoky, stony minerality typical of the Canary Islands, while the altitude and Atlantic exposure keep it fresh. The grapes are de-stemmed whole rather than crushed, then ferment on their own native lees for fourteen days with manual bâtonnage, which adds texture and lets the site speak. The wine is aged ten months in French, Allier and Nevers oak, a restrained élevage that frames the fruit without covering it. Expect a bright red colour and a nose of fresh red fruit, cracked pepper, wild herbs and a distinct smoky, volcanic note. The palate is medium-bodied and savoury, intense and complex, with fine tannin, fresh acidity and a mineral finish. Serve at 15 to 17 degrees, decanted briefly. Good with game, red meat and mushroom dishes.