Strohmeier TLZ Weiss Nº13 2022

Franz and Christine Strohmeier farm in Steiermark, the green heart of Austria, and make only natural wines with no chemical additives and almost no added sulphur. Styria is a cool, hilly, high rainfall region, and its long slow ripening gives white wines high acidity and modest alcohol, here just 11.5 per cent. This cuvee blends Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc and is fermented and aged in barrel, though the wood is old and used, so it lends oxygen and texture rather than oak flavour. Working without additives means the wine goes through native yeast fermentation and a slow elevage on its lees, which builds a fine, slightly savoury texture and a gentle grip. The style is dry and cloudy in the natural manner, with green apple, pear and lemon fruit, a nutty, bruised apple edge from the oxidative handling, and a long, mineral finish. It rewards a little air, so open it ahead of time and serve at around 10 to 12 degrees.