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$150
A white Barbados rum from St. Nicholas Abbey, unusually made from cane syrup, fresh and vegetal with banana, sugarcane, grass and a floral lift, an unsweetened estate distillate at a soft 40 percent.
Description
St. Nicholas Abbey is the boutique estate of Barbados, a Jacobean great house dating to 1658 with rum revived in 2006. Unusually for the island it works from cane syrup rather than molasses, crushed on a restored steam mill, which gives this unaged white a more agricole-leaning character than a typical Bajan. It is estate-bottled, unsweetened, at a gentle 40 percent.
Distilled on the estate's pot and column stills, the cane-syrup base shows clearly: banana, sugarcane, earthy and grassy notes on the nose, then banana, vanilla, more sugarcane and grass on the palate, with a warm, earthy, oily finish. Light, floral and faintly vegetal, it reads as something of an oddity among Barbados rums and rewards anyone curious about cane-juice distillates. At 40 percent it is best treated as a clean, sippable base for cocktails rather than a big-flavoured statement.
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