Speyburn 24 Years Old 1989 (Connoisseurs Choice)

Gordon & MacPhail bottled this Speyburn single malt, a 24 year old Speyside malt from 1989 and bottled at 46%. Speyburn was founded in 1897 opposite Glen Grant near Rothes; it was designed by the pagoda architect Charles Doig. Traditional worm tub condensers are still used, giving a rounded, fragrant make.

It was drawn off the stills into worm tubs, the old way of condensing, for a light, floral spirit with a worm tub weight. Ex-Sherry wood suited the make, adding a dried fruit richness. Past eighteen years the spirit turns rich and honeyed while keeping its fruit. The light, fragrant make takes cask character readily across maturation. The classic onion stills and worm tubs give a fresh yet rounded Speyside spirit. Hopkins also owned Tobermory on Mull when he built Speyburn in 1897. The cool Speyside glen gives a slow, even maturation in dunnage warehouses.

At 46% it is smooth and fruity. The Oloroso brings dried fruit, fig and a nutty depth, and a gentle vanilla and coconut from the wood runs under a clean, honeyed fruitiness. The mouthfeel is rounded, the fruit carried on a honeyed body. A long, honeyed finish carries a fruity lift. This is a fruity Speysider from Rothes.