Sigalas Santorini Vin Santo 2015

Domaine Sigalas farms on Santorini, the Greek volcanic island whose ash and pumice soils and relentless sun and wind define its wines. This Vin Santo is made in the island's traditional way: Assyrtiko and Aidani grapes are left to dry in the sun after picking, so the berries shrivel and concentrate their sugar and acid. The vines are organically farmed and the low-nutrient volcanic soil naturally limits yields, giving small berries with intense flavour. After a slow fermentation that leaves heavy residual sugar, the wine ages around seven years in oak barrels, a long oxidative period that deepens the colour and builds the nutty, caramelised tones typical of the style as oxygen works slowly through the wood. The colour is golden amber. The nose is dried fig, honey and roasted nuts with caramel and orange marmalade, and raisin and date in support. The palate is thick and sweet, but Assyrtiko's high natural acidity cuts through and keeps the finish long and clean rather than sticky. Serve lightly chilled, around 12 degrees, in a small glass.