Savanna The Wild Island Edition – Arbre 2012

Savanna in Reunion is unusual in making agricole, molasses and intensely funky Grand Arome rums under one roof, so the label matters, and this Wild Island Edition Arbre is the cane juice side, made from fresh pressed sugar cane juice. Aged eight years in cognac casks as an AgriCognac, it is bottled unsweetened at a focused 52.3%.

The cognac influence is front and centre, drawing the spirit toward orchard fruit of green apple, pear and grape with herbs and spice, while the cane juice base keeps a grassy thread running underneath. The oak is dry and lightly tannic, finishing on barrel, wood and a touch of astringency, so the whole thing reads as drier and more wine-cask in feel than fruity. It is a characterful crossover for drinkers who like both dry agricole and cognac, an exploration of where Reunion cane juice and French wine wood meet, provided a little tannic grip is welcome.