Samuel Billaud Chablis Les Grands Terroirs 2023

Samuel Billaud struck out from the family estate to build his own project, and this Les Grands Terroirs is a village Chablis that draws on parcels across the appellation. Chablis sits at the cool northern edge of Burgundy, and its wines are made entirely from Chardonnay grown on Kimmeridgian marl, a limestone soil packed with fossilised oyster shells that gives the region its hallmark saline minerality. The marginal climate keeps sugars in check and acidity high, so the fruit is picked with bright citrus definition rather than tropical ripeness. The wine is vinified in the classic Chablis manner, with a portion aged in barrel to add a little texture and roundness while preserving the cut of the fruit; there is no heavy new oak to obscure the terroir. The colour is pale gold with green tints. The nose is precise, showing lemon, green apple and white flowers over a wet stone and briny note. The palate is dry and linear, with citrus and a chalky, saline grip carried by firm acidity to a clean, faintly nutty finish. Serve well chilled at 10 to 12 degrees.