Saint James 9 Ans (Très Vieux Rhum Agricole)

From Saint James, distilling in Martinique since 1765 and among the island's largest houses, this is a nine year old AOC agricole bottled at 43%. It sits squarely in the middle of the range, the older sibling to the standard expressions and a dependable introduction to what tropical ageing does to fresh cane spirit.

Distilled from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice on a creole column run low to keep the grassy congeners, then matured in ex-bourbon casks under Caribbean heat, it reads woody and dry rather than sweet. Oak, vanilla and a thread of light smoke lead, with tobacco, dried fruit and a faint coffee edge underneath and a grassy, spicy cane note holding the centre. Unsweetened in the AOC tradition, it drinks comfortably neat or with a splash of water, a relaxed oak-driven pour.